London Collections: Men SS17
Entitled ‘Velocity’, Turnbull & Asser’s spring/summer ’17 presentation took place yesterday with a collection inspired by the Grand Prix scene of 1970s Monte Carlo, celebrating the antics and heroism of victors of the day.
The choice of iconic English auction house Christie’s as the venue for the audacious racing-inspired range truly underlined our brand’s commitment to eccentricity. The walls displayed brilliantly bold artworks from Joel Clark - flat vinyl collages referenced driving greats like James Hunt and Lord Hesketh while car door offcuts splattered with idyllic sunset scenes alongside a wall-long painterly backdrop temporarily transported guests to the streets of Monaco while sipping on cocktails courtesy of Gilpin's Gin.
Direct references to motoring came in the form of tailored siren suits and decorated custom Davida crash helmets; in contrast, newly introduced swim shorts partnered with short-sleeved beach shirts and Larke sunglasses to create an archetypal uniform for post-race recreation.
‘The designs are an ode to the lovable rogues of Formula 1. These daredevil drivers would often turn up to races in a Rolls Royce Corniche laden down with attractive women and enough champagne to sink a battleship.’ – Dean Gomilsek-Cole, Head of Design.
Resembling a sun-faded Polaroid of the racing car world, SS17 explores the juxtaposition between the hard graphic lines of the sport and the soft, relaxed ambience associated with summer. Palette-wise, warm orange tones mix with washed-out shades of ochre, copper and pale pistachio faded into white backgrounds, while lilac and sky blue complement soft grey and sand. Both colour combinations are brought to life through woven patterns in the brand’s signature shirting to form the foundations of the range.
Traditional bold Jermyn Street ‘power stripes’ are given a gentler finish atop beach-like sandy backgrounds, while modern Diamond Standard cloth, ideal for warmer climates, is presented in neat micro-grid checks which are blurred to evoke a sense of movement – fitting in with the collection’s title. The Ronson shirt – an evolution of AW16’s dominating blazer pattern - ties old and new ideas together by reimagining Prince of Wales check as a disruptive pattern in a number of colours.
Playing on the idea of resort wear, this season's Informalist is a spin-off from the classic Oxford shirt using irregular bold stripes while shirts with lazy pyjama-style collars play into the insouciance of summer. As hinted, the Garment 57 silhouette returns in printed paisley silks and abstract indigo cottons, which pair with coordinating drawstring ‘yacht’ trousers for the ultimate in elegant relaxation.
At T&A we have simultaneously catered for the discerning classicist and the flamboyant eccentric through a strong focus on fabric, blending silk, linen and cotton alongside lightweight wools. Leading the tailoring separates are unlined double-breasted four patch pocket jackets and statement horizontal stripe blazers in ultra-light wool and active stretch cotton, each continuing the season’s play on movement.
We remember our roots by continuing to champion the artistry and craftsmanship associated with our ‘Made in England’ mantra; exquisite neckties and pocket squares influenced by various art movements of the 70s arouse an essence of speed through the use of print and pattern.
Photography by Jamie McGregor Smith and Chris Pollard